In this third and final part, we’ll be replacing the heat bed, we'll work on the controlled environment, installing our custom water-cooling loop, adding insulation and finally updating our configuration for the Duet.
In this second part of the Cube Pro Total Conversion blog series, we’ll get our hands dirty. We’ll be replacing most components with ours and start tinkering with the printer. There will be CAD design, assembling, wiring, and configuration required.
The Pro series line of product is designed to push the reliability to a whole new level. Every small feature has been redesigned from bottom-up from based on the feedback we received and our own experience. The heating block undergoes a massive amount of stresses: thermal stress from the heater, pressure stress from the extruder and tension stress from the nozzle. With our intensive tests with high-temperature materials such as PEEK, PEI (Ultem) and PSU, we have realized that this component required a rethinking.
In the last few years, we wanted to achieve even more in terms of performance and 3D printing quality. So, we worked at developing a new product line. The Pro Series, which includes the DyzEnd Pro hotend and the DyzeXtruder Pro extruder, boasts increased performance compared to its predecessors. Our new Pro Series was officially released at this year’s TCT Show, which was taking place from September 25th to 27th in Birmingham, England.
The Cube Pro is a well-known printer from 3D Systems. We knew this printer had excellent mechanical design and we were interested in buying one. We found a pretty good deal on a non-working unit and decided to buy it. The unit in question had one extruder removed due to malfunction. Learn in this blog series how we managed to convert a non-working Cube Pro into an amazing printer; with open source firmware, high-end components, able to print any materials, and for a fraction of the price of the original printer.
Choosing the right speed for your print can be quite a challenge. After a bit of trial and error, you’ll be able to guess a setting that will generally work. Still, you’ll have a lot of variation with your results. Our print speed calculator has been developed to help you choose the right setting based on our experimental values. This blog will teach you the basics for understanding 3D printer extrusion, how we developed the calculator, and why it can be very useful for you.
It’s getting more and more common to see fiber reinforced polymer as 3D printer material. And as you push your filament through your hotend, pressure is building; as the plastic exits out of the nozzle, many hard fibers are sliding and rolling against the inner wall. This causes Abrasive wear, also referred as ''cutting wear'', ''slurry erosion'' and ''scratching wear''.
Water cooling a 3D printer is an excellent solution for performance, stability, and high-temperature enclosed chambers. We’ve been supporting water cooling solutions since our beginning and it was time for an update. These improvements are based on users reviews and […]
Choosing a filament size can seem like a tough decision when designing a 3D printer. It is not only a question of personal taste, there are advantages to both standards. Keep reading if you wish to know more. The first […]
This third part will discuss firmware and slicer configuration, real experiments, and prints. Make sure you read the first part which explores the components involved in both speed and acceleration performance and then the second part which explores all the theory […]
This second part will discuss the measurable and calculable limits of the parts explained in Part I. It will be very useful if you want to find the theoretical limits of your machine. Next part will show firmware and slicer […]
Printing at 300 mm/s is something quite impressive. You’ve probably seen it at least once on a few printer specs or on a video. Are they really printing at this speed? Maybe, but it is very hard to verify. Printing […]