3D printer heaters have evolved over the years, from the NiChrome wire in putty to the heater cartridge. Today, a new generation of heaters has emerged: Spiral heaters, which offers better control and better uniformity.
Why would you need liquid cooling? How is it any good? Why not use a Peltier cooler? Learn everything we learned about water-cooling in 3d printers since we released our first liquid cooling solution back in 2015.
If you are building your own printer, you'll surely have to make a decision between a 12V or 24V system. One has many advantages over the other, and we'll try to explain why in this small guide. Of course, other voltages exist such as 36V and 48V. We'll also cover where these could be used.
In this third and final part, we’ll be replacing the heat bed, we'll work on the controlled environment, installing our custom water-cooling loop, adding insulation and finally updating our configuration for the Duet.
In this second part of the Cube Pro Total Conversion blog series, we’ll get our hands dirty. We’ll be replacing most components with ours and start tinkering with the printer. There will be CAD design, assembling, wiring, and configuration required.
The Pro series line of product is designed to push the reliability to a whole new level. Every small feature has been redesigned from bottom-up from based on the feedback we received and our own experience. The heating block undergoes a massive amount of stresses: thermal stress from the heater, pressure stress from the extruder and tension stress from the nozzle. With our intensive tests with high-temperature materials such as PEEK, PEI (Ultem) and PSU, we have realized that this component required a rethinking.
The Cube Pro is a well-known printer from 3D Systems. We knew this printer had excellent mechanical design and we were interested in buying one. We found a pretty good deal on a non-working unit and decided to buy it. The unit in question had one extruder removed due to malfunction. Learn in this blog series how we managed to convert a non-working Cube Pro into an amazing printer; with open source firmware, high-end components, able to print any materials, and for a fraction of the price of the original printer.
Choosing the right speed for your print can be quite a challenge. After a bit of trial and error, you’ll be able to guess a setting that will generally work. Still, you’ll have a lot of variation with your results. Our print speed calculator has been developed to help you choose the right setting based on our experimental values. This blog will teach you the basics for understanding 3D printer extrusion, how we developed the calculator, and why it can be very useful for you.
It’s getting more and more common to see fiber reinforced polymer as 3D printer material. And as you push your filament through your hotend, pressure is building; as the plastic exits out of the nozzle, many hard fibers are sliding and rolling against the inner wall. This causes Abrasive wear, also referred as ''cutting wear'', ''slurry erosion'' and ''scratching wear''.