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Choosing the right extruder for your 3D printing needs can be a daunting task, especially with the range of options available. In this blog post, we’ll break down the differences between each Dyze Design extrusion systems.
We’ll explore the benefits of each one, so you can make an informed decision when selecting the extruder that best fits your needs.
Nozzle clogging and extruder slipping are the main factors causing extrusion problems. But what about restrictions in the PTFE tubing? Might it cause extrusion problems or, in the very least, losses in the extrusion process?
Pulsar™ has no mixing section, but experiments have shown that there's a good shear in the screw, mostly in the later section of the extruder. This section which is very close to the nozzle adds some mixing path and fixed separation of the melt before it exits, which greatly improves the mixing.
What makes a good extruder? How does it work? We’ll dive into this blog and see how important an extruder is. You’ll understand the challenges in designing a compact, powerful and durable extruder. We’ll also take a look at how we managed to improve our design by taking a deeper look into them.
3D printer heaters have evolved over the years, from the NiChrome wire in putty to the heater cartridge. Today, a new generation of heaters has emerged: Spiral heaters, which offers better control and better uniformity.
Why would you need liquid cooling? How is it any good? Why not use a Peltier cooler? Learn everything we learned about water-cooling in 3d printers since we released our first liquid cooling solution back in 2015.
If you are building your own printer, you'll surely have to make a decision between a 12V or 24V system. One has many advantages over the other, and we'll try to explain why in this small guide. Of course, other voltages exist such as 36V and 48V. We'll also cover where these could be used.
In this third and final part, we’ll be replacing the heat bed, we'll work on the controlled environment, installing our custom water-cooling loop, adding insulation and finally updating our configuration for the Duet.
In this second part of the Cube Pro Total Conversion blog series, we’ll get our hands dirty. We’ll be replacing most components with ours and start tinkering with the printer. There will be CAD design, assembling, wiring, and configuration required.
The Pro series line of product is designed to push the reliability to a whole new level. Every small feature has been redesigned from bottom-up from based on the feedback we received and our own experience. The heating block undergoes a massive amount of stresses: thermal stress from the heater, pressure stress from the extruder and tension stress from the nozzle. With our intensive tests with high-temperature materials such as PEEK, PEI (Ultem) and PSU, we have realized that this component required a rethinking.
The Cube Pro is a well-known printer from 3D Systems. We knew this printer had excellent mechanical design and we were interested in buying one. We found a pretty good deal on a non-working unit and decided to buy it. The unit in question had one extruder removed due to malfunction. Learn in this blog series how we managed to convert a non-working Cube Pro into an amazing printer; with open source firmware, high-end components, able to print any materials, and for a fraction of the price of the original printer.